By patrickjack84, Mar 19 2018 12:45PM
Short film Written & Directed by Jonathan Schey
Costume Designer - Patrick Jack Whelan (www.patrickjackdesigns.com)
Staring Toby Jones.
Short film Written & Directed by Jonathan Schey
Costume Designer - Patrick Jack Whelan (www.patrickjackdesigns.com)
Staring Toby Jones.
However, one of my main points of interest throughout the entire show was Rupaul’s Looks.. After season 9’s controversial disappearance of Mathu Andersen, which lead to an erratic array of mishmash looks from Ru(see previous blog post for more info), and the arrival of Raven Hunty on Makeup & Delta Work on Hair.
I personally felt by the end of season 9 the ladies were really beginning to craft some severe looks. Don’t get me wrong it was a drastic change from the House of Mathu, which had to happen. No two artists paint the same, and no one wants to try and imitate another’s work.
Needless to say I was excited to see how it was going to develop.
SO.. low and behold All Stars Season 3 arrives… and I am ready!
So first of all, I have always been a massive fan of Mathu, especially his work on Rupaul over the years. They have crafted some magnificent art. I am also in no doubt that Raven is an extremely talent Makeup Artist. Unfortunately for him whether he did a good job or not initially he was going to be scrutinized.
But in life & especially in pop culture it is key to keep things fresh and current.
So I am a huge believer in change. Although it can be uncomfortable and come as a shock, change does allow things to grow and develop.
Below I have put some headshots of Ru's look each week. Numbered by Episode. So Ya'll can make up your own minds.
Starting with wigs. Definitely a big improvement since Season 9 in my opinion! More structured, more hold, better silhouettes. Dare I say it, Better quality wigs!
They have a very Delta Work “Look” about them, which sometimes I think is fabulous but I kinda wanna see something different. Each wig from this season seem to have a really harsh ridge from the wig line going into the style(pic attached). Which is something we have seen on Ru before in Mathu days. But usually mixed within other styling techniques along the way.
The wig in Episode 5 I hated! With a passion. The really heavy black root did nothing for Mother Ru!
But Episodes 2,3 & 8 I was blown away by.
The Makeup - Well I am sold. Box it, Bag it.. I'll take it.
Raven had a tough road to start on.
No.1 it being Rupaul!
No.2 Following from Mathu.
No.3 having very little practice/rehearsal time.
No.4 Knowing that whatever he did, was going to be heavily judged.
So this left season 9 being heavily filtered and severely lacking continuity & clarity.
I won’t lie. I didn’t like the change. I was praying to the gods of drag to compel Mathu to come back!
BUT I sit here now in the wake of All Stars Season 3 having finished, content in the new union of Rupaul & Raven.
Episodes 3, 6 & 8 were my fave makeup looks – Episodes 6 was literally like “My Little Pony Realness”.
Although we are still all unsure to exactly why Mathu disappeared and in some ways it is sad this union ended, I think the work that Raven is now doing on Ru feels very NOW. Its crafting out a fresher, almost rebranded Ru. There are elements of classic drag makeup mixed with current trends. Harsh raven contour lines but with a soft fading blend. The whole thing feels more Drag. The development from Season 9 to All Stars 3 is clear. The paint is strong!
So Raven, I salute you. You are creating something bold & new. Rupaul 2.0
I’m already gagging for season 10!
“If ya can’t Love yourself, How the hell ya gunna love somebody else”
Also condragulations to the winner.....(x)
So anyone who knows me, KNOWS I am a huge fan of RuPauls Drag Race!!
I feel like it’s encouraging to people of all generations to be creative. Whether that be with Makeup, costumes, altering your own clothes etc. You see people from all different walks of life on the show making gowns or customizing corsets! Get out your sewing machines girls!
I for one am hooked! I just adore seeing the costumes and makeup looks these girls create. I also find myself gagging in anticipation to see what look Rupaul is going to be serving down the runway each episode. A lot of you will know this by but pretty much all of Ru’s outfits are custom made. His hair and makeup have been styled and applied by the one and only Mathu Andersen for over 30 years.. (until recently).
This leads me nicely onto why I find myself writing this blog! “Whatever Happened to Mathu Andersen!?”
So here’s the tea.. Mathu has been a creative producer on the show since I believe series 2. He also was responsible for Ru’s Hair and Makeup from series 2 to series 8. HOWEVER.. he has not returned for season 9! (Nooooooo! •gasp• •gasp*)
My sources have told me that he was all lined up to return and take part in the newest season, then suddenly just days before the first filming day he pulled out due to a disagreement with Ru! Mathu had been on a troubled road in the lead up to the show. Deleting ALL his social media outlets claiming to be board with the constant trolls.
Now as you can imagine this left the show in some dilemma.. let alone Ru! Who the hell is going to be painting the mother of all drag?
Filming had to continue as planned – so ep 1 was shot. BUT with one major change. RU PAUL WAS NOT IN DRAG!! I hear it was seen as the safest options as there was no time to test run any new makeup artists. So the ep was reconstructed to suit the situation. Luckily with Lady GaGa there to steal the lime light – it almost balanced out.
Now, while Rupaul inc went to business about finding a replacement makeup designer filming had to continue – so Ru took it upon himself to do his own makeup. Now I imagine he hasn’t applied his own makeup in at least 10 years. This is a big deal! Makeup has changed and so has the application! Contouring! Baking! Highlight! Strobing! These weren’t such a big thing in the 90’s – plus HD and 4K shooting didn’t exist! You could hide a lot more.
Drag makeup is very different to straight glam or TV ready makeup. It takes experience to know how to paint drag. So it would take some time (and many Camera tests) to select a suitable candidate to fit with Ru. Its big boots to fill after Mathu – Ru and Mr Andersen had worked together for over 30 years! That’s some serious time to perfect a look!
Now Ep 2 Aired – well I imagine most people were pleased to see Ru back in drag. But it was very clear something was very different! He just didn’t look as “finished”… plus there was some seriously heavy filtering going on over Ru’s face (VERY EXPENSIVE PROCESS ON MOVING IMAGE) plus… very few if any close ups!
So a friend who is in with the close circle of the Drag Race team informed me that Ru wasn’t happy with his look so had demanded NO CLOSE UPS, and as much beauty blur as they could apply.. and boy they definitely did apply it! But never the less he did it, got through it, another ep down! On another note.. worst outfit I think I have ever seen Ru in… to Quote Michelle Visage .. It was just very “Pedestrian”.
Back to the story, while the show must go on the team were contacting makeup artists to come in and do camera tests. I am not sure how many were approached but I imagine it was a select few! One of which was our own season 2 contestant “Raven”… Yes Raven! Who is a very successful Makeup Artist. He had even fairly recently done a “How to Achieve the Rupaul Makeup Look” Tutorial on Youtube . So he seemed a natural candidate.
Long story short he was hired! So Raven was so stepping in to fill the shoes of Mathu for makeup(I am yet to find out who has taken over on hair).
Supposedly its been known for some time now in the drag community that Raven had taken on this role. But no one had confirmed this officially – I believe its something they wished to keep under wraps!
After ep 2 of Season 9 aired. There was a lot of shade about Ru’s makeup – a lot of people were questioning whether this was Raven’s work – now obviously Raven doesn’t want his fans to believe he was behind this so on his facebook page posted a link to the video of Shaggy’s song “It Wasn’t Me” to subtly inform people that he had NO involvement in that look.
Then episode 3 aired and obviously there was suddenly a vast improvement from the last week, but also quite a dramatic change to the overall look… it was a move away from the typical Andersen paint job. It instantly had the look of a Raven face. To confirm his involvement while the episode aired he put a status on his fan page again of three paint palette emoji’s . I’m not sure why it needs to be such a secret, but it is.. he is also either not being credited or going under another name in the credits! (Odd)
I think its an exciting change. Don’t get me wrong I am and always will be a fan of Mathu’s work – I fell in love with his instagram page(sad its now gone). Just seeing his Art was so inspiring. It does however leave me wondering what the hell happened to make Mathu leave the Show!? Where is he now… what he is doing? In other words.. Whatever Happened to Mathu Andersen!?
But on a closing note I feel change is a good thing! It keeps things Fresh. I look forward to seeing how the looks develop over the series! Go Raven Hunty… you got this!!
1 - Rupaul with a Mathu Andersen Makeup job
2 - Rupaul and Lady Gaga Season 9 episode 1 - NO DRAG
3 - Rupaul Season 9 Ep 2 - Painted his own Face
4- Rupaul Season 9 Ep 3 - Raven Hunty paint job
5 - Raven - you can see trademark Raven techniques have been used on Rupaul from looking at classic shots of Raven.
Well its Friday (TGIF) and I'm home early so I thought I would take the opportunity to update the ye old costume blog!
It’s a comedy series about a fictional royal family of Merry England.
Charles Edwards is the lead playing Henry IX, Lovely man! We created a look similar to something he wore in the series that perhaps a king would wear at an offical Meet and Greet! We worked with Angels Costumiers on this. I love going into the depths of their store and pulling pieces, putting looks together. As you can imagine, its endless! Every era, every style! Wonderful!
We also had 2 x Royal Guards, 2 x Royal Advisors, 4 x Paparazzi and 4 FABULOUS, glamorous grannies who were extreme royalists. They were such fun costumes to create. I know some off the radar stores in London where I can get some rather wonderful twin set suits and accessories. I wanted it all to be in Pastel tones. We customized Hats to coordinate with the outfits. My head assistant is a milliner, so was handy to have to hand ;)
Really lovely fun shoot! Here is a Link to the commercial - Click Here
Right.. I'm off to make Thai curry!
We shot over four days completely on Green Screen, Stills and moving image.
There was a cast of 14. Obviously when working on Green Screen there are certain limitations – no green in the costumes for one! Also white is very difficult against green screen so avoid where possible. The client had requested white shirts for some of the business looks plus the biggest thing we had to contend with was the fact that a traditional Qatari mans dress is something called a thobe. It’s a completely white pull over robe, which has a shirt collar detail and cuffs. Its usually heavily starched and worn with a head dress- this is called a Kaffiya. This is also white. There are various ways this can be worn. Cobra style is my personal fave! White tends to reflect green and in the edit its hard for the editor to place backgrounds behind – so each frame has to be cut out! WORK! So hence why production are usually very keen to avoid white in costumes where possible.
It was really interesting getting to research these looks and learn out to wrap a hijab and style a cobra.
Below are some images from final edits!
It features an array of brilliant comedians covering all the weeks biggest news. Its brilliantly funny and stars the likes of the “Birthday Girls” who are a fabulous comedy trio I have had the privilege of working with a few times. I designed the costumes for the E4 comedy sketch show they all stared in. "Top 5"
A couple of weeks ago we shot a few of their sketches – one of which was “Broccoli Puss”…(see pictures)
“A new trend sweeping the nation”. Myself and the girls chatted with the producers about the look of this sketch and the conclusion was a cheap bingo commercial meets bucks Fizz with a hint of a shopping channel.
As you can imagine it was great fun. We had a days turn around as the show is shot as live - so me my assistant and the trusty shopping trolly went whizzing around oxford street. I then spent the night making 3 whip away circle skirts to match the tops I had got them(Bucks Fizz style) that the girls could pull off for the big reveal. The next morning we started shooting.
If you head over to the Elevenish twitter page you can see a clip of the sketch.
It was an absolute hoot to make but also madness to actually film, as it was all done in one shot!! I’ve never really worked much in theatre before (only designing a couple of stage shows, but not as a dresser) and I think this is the closest I will come to experience a series of quick changes at the side of a stage! Hats off to you dressers!
The idea was to capture a day in the life of an asda Mum, showcasing the different scenarios you could possible wear George Jeans.
I was hiding and crawling through nooks and crannies of the set to help our actors change into their next looks. But I think it looks pretty flipping good ;) Well done team!
Its all Fun and Games here at Patrick Jack Designs HQ!
It was for a BBC learning series which will be out later this year.
Your see my initial designs in the images below. I try to adapt my design process to suit each job. So here for example I worked in a much more cartoon/comic book illustrators style to try and start bringing our world to life.
The story was based around a family of superhero’s and their arch nemesis. With different characters popping into the story line.
After working out the overall look of everything we need to establish a colour palette that was going to run throughout the show. After this was done the design process could really begin.
Its important to consider key points when designing like budget (every job is different), time, fabric, team (who, how and where are you having made/making the costumes), doubles/multiples (will you need more than one of each costume?), practicality of the costume, longevity of the garment… the list goes on.. its never as simple as just sitting down and sketching lovely things. Although that’s not a bad place to start to get your ideas going.
Really to get the look I wanted we had to make the costumes in a stretch fabric. I chose a 4 way stretch lycra. NOW this is a tricky fabric to work with.
I have an amazing maker that I use that is an expert in the stuff! So I like to communicate with her when finalizing the design to really make sure things are going to work. Like how things are going to sit, fit, shape the body and also move.
I do love a cape – but they’re never an easy thing to work with… but that’s another story.
We had to make the gloves and masks from scratch. Then customize all shoes and accessories.
We had quite a short amount of time to turn out all the costumes. On top of the superhero family we had all the other characters to consider. Including the super villain – who you can see in the images below.
I’ll post a link for the show once it is announced. But for now their are some images below of my designs and the finished costumes!
Each Ep would be topical and based on celebrity mishaps counting down the "Top 5". So for example - our pilot was based on "the Top 5 celebrity Splits". Covering Gwyneth Paltrow & Chris Martin, Rpatz, Miley Cyrus, One Direction and a range of other famous faces.
I LOVE designing the costumes on comedy-based shows like this - especially Sketch shows. It’s fast past, with a high turn around. You need to find the funny in the characters your designing and exaggerate it. Allow the audience to quickly read who it is and immediately find the funny (well that’s the plan anyway). Its giving the actors something to work with, to help portray the person they are putting across.
I worked with the producers, Make Up Designer and director to establish where we were heading with the looks, and then it was down to me, the make-up designer, and obviously our amazing teams to create them.
Click here to watch the show
We had 4 days to turn around 25 Walking Dead Zombie Costume, 25 Viking Costumes (including all amour, weapons and shields) & 15 Orange is the New Black Prison uniforms. YES it was madness! But I lived to tell the tale.
I’m always up for a challenge, and I’m NEVER beaten.
Myself and my team worked relentlessly to make sure we were fully prepped.
My supervisor was pulling weaponry and furs for Vikings from The Costume Studio in North London, two assistants were in my studio breaking down Zombie Costumes, My trainee was collecting shoes and accessories, I had a maker on board to recreate the designs of the Orange is the New Black Uniforms and while overseeing all of this I was buying/designing/arranging and basically just doing what I do but at SUPER lightening speed.
Everyone was amazing on the job and I couldn’t have done it without them.
I also had two dressers on hands on the two shoot days at pinewood to cope with the sheer amount of cast and on set checks.
But we did it, with a lot of coffee, chocolate and team spirit we got there. And I have to say it all looked pretty wonderful in the end.
My amazing friend Liz Hart designed the Make-Up and Prosthetics and did a brilliant job.
You can see the commercial here.
There are some images below of the costumes and a team selfie just to prove amongst it all we still managed to have fun. (its never dull in my costume truck!)